What's in my skincare?

Mad About Moisture

Learn about each ingredient in your Mad About Moisture skincare.


Dimethicone | Dimethicone Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer | Dimethiconol

Dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer are both types of silicones. There are lots of different types of “dimethicone-like” silicones; they differ from a structural chemical perspective, but their use and purpose are the same.

Their main purpose is to act as a delivery agent for the active ingredients in the product - think of them as the FedEx of skincare. They have a silky smooth, non-greasy texture which helps the product glide across our skin and can improve the appearance of our skin’s texture.

Let’s take a moment to address the silicone debate. Silicones sometimes get a bad rep which we (and many scientists, dermatologists, and leading beauty journalists) don’t think is deserved. So, here’s some silicone facts and we’ll let you make up your mind.

What’s it made from?

Silicones are made from the naturally occurring mineral, silicon (note no “e”), and oxygen. Silicon (otherwise known as quartz) is one of the most commonly occurring minerals on earth - sand is even made from the stuff. There are lots of changes to silicon to turn it into the silicone we can use in skincare and this is why it’s considered a synthetic ingredient.

Why use it in skincare?

Silicones have a lattice-like molecular structure, with large spaces sitting between the ingredient’s molecules. It’s kind of like the Burberry check, with the dark colours representing the silicone molecules and the light colours as the little spaces between them. When you use a product containing silicone, you get a fine film-like layer sitting on your skin which is punctured by millions and millions of these little holes. This structure is important because the little spaces let your skin breathe while the film-like layer both keeps moisture in the skin (most silicones don’t let water pass through) and acts as a carrier for active ingredients (so aiding the product’s performance). Once on your skin, the film enhances our skin’s texture, blurring any imperfections to improve your complexion.

Will they cause me to breakout?

No - don’t worry, they won’t.

Quite simply, silicones do not clog pores and do not lead to breakouts. There are a couple of reasons we know this. First, as we’ve just talked about, the structure of silicones means that there are these giant spaces between each molecule and this lets the skin breathe (even when we are wearing our skincare products). Secondly, the size of silicone molecules are too big to penetrate into the skin. This means that they can’t get into the pore to block it in the first place!  

Are they ok for people with sensitive skin?

Yes. Silicones are great for people with sensitive skin as they are extremely unlikely to cause any irritation or allergic reactions. Silicones have been around for a long time - around 70 years in consumer products - and so there has been a lot of time to test their safety. Note that hospitals use silicone-based dressings to take care of wounds due to their biocompatibility with most people (very few individuals have allergic reactions or sensitivity to silicone).

What about other health risks?

As silicone molecules are too big to penetrate our skin, it means they can’t enter our bloodstream or bioaccumulate. In other words, they can’t build up inside us to cause harm.

It’s worth mentioning here that there are two key types of silicones that are used in skincare - cyclic silicones (which we don’t use in Bolt Beauty products) and linear silicones (which we do use). There have been some studies that link cyclic silicones (cyclotetrasiloxane and cylcopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and cyclomethicone) to potential health issues (reproductive, developmental toxicity and/or endocrine disruption concerns); however, the latest studies are calling these earlier concerns into question. Let’s assume the jury is still out on these cyclic silicones. But what about their linear cousins - like dimethicone and its derivatives? We are not aware of any studies linking these types of silicones to similar health concerns (and we’ve really looked!). Instead, as we’ve previously described, there are good reasons to use these linear silicones in cosmetics products without any risk to your health.

Do they harm the environment?

There is lots of information out there claiming that silicones will harm the environment. Similar to when we looked at the health implications of silicones, it’s important to remember that there are different types of silicones that have different chemical structures and therefore different potential impacts on the planet. Cyclic silicones have been identified by the EU, Canada and Australia as having potentially harmful impacts on the planet due to they way they can bioaccumulate (build up) in water. However, even these studies go on to recognise that consumer use is unlikely to cause bioaccumulation. Again, let’s assume there isn’t a definitive answer on cyclic silicones yet. We are not aware of any scientific evidence that linear silicones (like dimethicone) are causing harm to the environment. Certain governments have designated cyclic silicones as an environmental problem, but none has done the same for linear silicones. In addition, other studies indicate that dimethicone is “degraded to inorganic constituents, carbon dioxide, silicic acid and water” and “no adverse effects have been detected in experimental organisms representative of the environmental compartments in which dimethicone… may be found”.  

So, why do silicones have a bad rep?

It’s a good question and we’re not really sure of the answer. We can speculate that some of the potential issues related to cyclic silicones have tarnished the reputation of non-harmful, friendly, linear silicones. The fundamental chemical differences between the ingredients can get lost when they all share the generic “silicone” surname. Ever get in trouble at school even though you didn’t do anything but you were hanging around with the kid with the bad rep? It’s just like that.

We’ve also noticed that it’s pretty trendy these days to have a “formulated without” list. We have “suspicious sixes”, “naughty nines” and who knows what will be next. These can be super helpful to identify ingredients that are known to be problematic. But, they can also be confusing, meaningless, and a great marketing tactic. Silicones have started making their way on to these which perpetuates the confusion over whether or not they are problematic ingredients. Let’s start talking about what we formulate with instead :)

Conclusion

Well done for making it through all that detail. As you’ll now be aware, there is a lot of information about silicones and some of it is more accurate than others. We hope a key takeaway for you is that there are different types of silicones and not all silicones are created equal - especially when it comes to the impact on human health or our planet. We are committed to creating safe, effective products and have no reason to consider dimethicone or its derivatives to be potentially hazardous. We’ll continue to monitor the latest scientific studies and will update this when new information on the silicones debate is published.

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

Made from coconut oil and glycerol (a colourless, odourless, plant-derived ingredient), it’s an awesome emollient* which helps to keep our skin glowing and hydrated.

Studies show that Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride is safe to use and is compatible with most skin types (meaning it is a great ingredient to look for if you have sensitive skin).

Silica | Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Silica is a naturally occurring mineral and can also be produced synthetically; silica dimethyl silylate is a derivative of silica. They have lots of roles in cosmetics, including as an absorbant and thickening agent. They are also an extremely gently exfoliating ingredient, helping to remove dead skin cells, excess oil, makeup and other pollution or impurities that build up over the day.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

A mixture of a fatty alcohol (well, technically, an ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol) and palmitic acid. It can have different functions in cosmetics products, including as a solvent, emollient, and fragrance carrier (although we don’t actually use it as a fragrance carrier in Mad About Moisture as it’s unfragranced!). As a solvent, its role is to make sure the ingredients in the cosmetics product mix together well and helping the active ingredients (like hyaluronic acid) absorb better into our skin. We also use it because it’s a great emollient*, helping to keep your skin hydrated and soft.

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (Tea Seed Oil or Dongbaek Oil)

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (or more commonly referred to as tea seed oil) is an amazing ingredient which is derived from the beautiful tea seed plant (google image search “camellia plant” and you’ll probably want one for your garden).  

It’s been used in Eastern skincare for centuries, with Geisha girls using it to nourish their skin and even remove their makeup. Modern science now backs traditional claims. Studies show that Camellia Japonica Seed Oil both stimulates collagen production by triggering the responsible gene, COL1A2, and helps stop collagen deterioration by inhibiting the enzymes responsible for breaking it down. It’s comprised mainly of natural lipids (a lipid is something like oil or fat which can’t be dissolved in water) - the main one being oleic acid (otherwise known as the fatty acid omega 9) - and so works as an emollient*, enhancing the skin’s natural barrier and locking in moisture. Finally, Tea Seed Oil is extremely high in antioxidants*, helping to prevent damage to the skin caused by daily life.  

With all these benefits, no wonder the Geisha girls look so great. We’ll have some of those benefits too, please.

Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E)

Tocopheryl acetate is a form of Vitamin E. It’s a synthetic form of tocopherol, which is the natural version of Vitamin E (if you want to get super sciencey-specific, tocopheryl acetate is actually an ester of tocopherol). Tocopheryl acetate is more stable than tocopherol (it doesn’t oxidize) which is why it’s used in cosmetic products, but when we put it on our skin it converts into tocopherol.

Vitamin E is an amazing antioxidant* that protects our skin from damage caused by daily life, like UV rays (sun damage) or air pollution. When our skin encounters these harmful things, it is at risk of damage by unstable molecules called “free radicals”. Free radicals harm our skin in a process called “oxidative stress”. This causes dullness, pigmentation, skin sagging, and fine lines - not what we want for our skin. Antioxidants help to prevent this damage by neutralising the “free radicals”. This helps us to maintain firm and non-pigmented skin, which looks healthy and bright.

If you want to learn more, you can read more about “free radicals” and antioxidants in our description of “antioxidants”.

There have been some suggestions on the internet that tocopherol in skincare is not safe. We are completely committed to providing you with safe and effective skincare and so we take any claim about ingredient safety very seriously. It turns out that these claims are based on studies where mice were injected multiple-times with tocopherol and then developed tumours. These studies do not deal with topical application of tocopherol in low doses. There are no scientific studies which show that tocopherol in skincare causes cancer (or other harm). In fact, there are actually studies which show that application of tocopherol can help to reduce skin cancers in humans.  We hope this helps reassure you on where the rumours come from and why tocopherol is safe to use in your skincare routine.

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (Castor Seed Oil)

Castor seed oil is derived from the Ricinus Communis plant. It’s made by cold pressing the seeds to get the oil, which is then heated for purification. Caster seed oil is formed mainly of Ricinoleic Acid (an omega 9 fatty acid) and so functions as an emollient*, helping our skin stay soft and hydrated.

Sodium Hyaluronate | Hydrolized Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid has become a bit of a buzz word among skincare fans and is a “must have” for plump, hydrated skin. This is because hyaluronic acid is a humectant. In other words, it’s something that retains water - it’s so good at this, it can actually hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. This is why it is incredibly effective in skincare, pulling in the moisture to make sure your skin stays hydrated and plump.

We know what you’re thinking… what’s hyaluronic acid got to do with sodium hyaluronate or hydrolized sodium hyaluronate? They are actually part of the same family. The differences lie in the chemical composition of each ingredient.

Let’s start with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide (in (semi-)normal words, a chain of carbohydrate molecules). It already exists in our skin as a molecule making up the extracellular matrix (i.e. the stuff between the skin cells). However, the amount of naturally occurring hyaluronic acid decreases as we get older; first from the epidermis (the outermost layer of our skin) and then from the dermis. Less hyaluronic acid means the skin has a harder time locking in moisture and staying plump and hydrated - queue fine lines, wrinkles, and dry, dull skin.  

Sodium hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid. We then break down sodium hyaluronate even further via a chemical reaction with water to give us hydrolized sodium hyaluronate. There is good reason to create these ingredients from hyaluronic acid: hyaluronic acid molecules are really big (well, relatively) which means they cannot easily penetrate the skin to get to the deeper layers. Sodium hyaluronate and hydrolized sodium hyaluronate have a much lower molecular weight than hyaluronic acid meaning they can reach the lower levels of the skin to work their magic. By combining both hydrolized sodium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate (i.e. small molecules and even smaller molecules) in Mad About Moisture, we get to effectively target different parts of the skin with water-attracting ingredients.

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

An antioxidant* which works to preserve the active ingredients in the cosmetics product. Just as free radicals can damage our skin by stealing electrons from the healthy cells (you can read more about this in our description of “antioxidants”), they also impact cosmetics products in exactly the same way. By using an antioxidant in the formulation, we help to reduce the negative impact of these free radicals and maintain the quality and efficacy of the product.

Bisabolol (Chamomile Extract)

Bisabolol is an extract derived from the lovely chamomile plant, which has been shown to be particularly effective in skincare. Studies show that it reduces sensitivity and inflammation which helps to minimise irritation and contributes to the skin’s healing process. It does this by stopping the release of things called cytokines, specifically, TNF-α and IL-6 (these are little signalling systems which tell our body to react to harm or not). By inhibiting the release of these cytokines, bisabolol is soothing on the skin, helping to reduce skin inflammation, redness or sensitivity.

Bisabolol also has other properties which keep our skin healthy and glowing. It has strong antioxidant* properties so helps to fight any damage caused to our skin through oxidative stress (you can read more about what this means in our explanation of “antioxidant”). It is also anti-microbial (has properties that kill really small bad stuff like fungi or bacteria) and so can help fight skin infections. For a pretty little flower, it definitely packs some punch.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydrogenated castor seed oil is made from caster seed oil (we also use caster seed oil in Mad About Moisture and you can read about this ingredient separately). It’s made by heating caster oil under pressure in the presence of the metal, nickel. This process causes hydrogen to be added to its chemical composition and turns caster oil into hydrogenated caster oil. The effect of this change is a more stable ingredient, with a higher melting point (meaning it is actually a solid not a liquid at room temperature). Hydrogenated caster oil functions as an occlusive (something that traps in moisture through a super fine layer on our skin) and so helps keep our skin hydrated and healthy.

Pentylene Glycol

A synthetic humectant (something which attracts and holds on to water), which helps keep skin hydrated. We use it to bolster the effects of our hyaluronic acid based ingredients (also humectants) and help our skin stay extra soft and plump. Pentylene glycol is also known to have antimicrobial properties. This means it also helps to preserve the skincare product so it continues to be safe and effective to use.

As a side note, you might see “glycol” as part of the name for quite a few ingredients (in cosmetics and other industries). “Glycol” refers to a group of compounds which belongs to the alcohol family. There any many different forms that are used for a diverse range of things; they might share a surname, but they are definitely standalone characters.

Butylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for lots of reasons: it’s a humectant (it attracts and holds on to water); it helps to deliver other active ingredients in the formulation due to its low molecular size; and it helps to keep the consistency of the product smooth and light.

As a side note, you might see “glycol” as part of the name for quite a few ingredients (in cosmetics and other industries). “Glycol” refers to a group of compounds which belongs to the alcohol family. There any many different forms that are used for a diverse range of things; they might share a surname, but they are definitely standalone characters.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract (Ginger Root Extract)

Zingiber officinale root extract (or more commonly called ginger root), is made from the ginger plant. It’s been used in herbal and Ayurvedic remedies for hundreds of years (if not longer) to treat different diseases and skin conditions. Modern scientific studies support the efficacy of ginger root extract - it is rich in antioxidant* and anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective at repairing and calming our skin.

Lactic Acid / Glycolic Acid Copolymer | Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50 | Polyvinyl Alcohol | Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

These ingredients form the basis of the clever DroneTM Technology used in Mad About Moisture to make sure the active ingredients (sodium hyaluronate and hydrolized sodium hyaluronate) reach the parts of the skin that need it most.  

Think of DroneTM Technology in skincare as Google maps for the active ingredients; it makes sure they get to the parts of the skin they need to reach. The DoneTMtechnology works by encapsulating the active ingredients in a “peptide ligand” - a chain of amino acids which are designed to bind to specific cells in the skin. When they reach the right cells, they “bind on”, triggering the release of the active ingredient. We release them to the fibroblasts (the cells that are responsible for making up the extracellular matrix or structure of our skin), to help maintain the levels of hyaluronic acid in the middle layer (dermis) of our skin. This helps keep our skin healthy, plump and hydrated, and reduces the appearance of any fine lines of wrinkles.





GET YOUT HANDS ON MAD ABOUT MOISTURE FOR YOUR HYDRATION HIT.
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What's in my skincare?

Mad About Moisture

Learn about each ingredient in your Mad About Moisture moisturiser.

Dimethicone | Dimethicone Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer | Dimethiconol

Dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer are both types of silicones. There are lots of different types of “dimethicone-like” silicones; they differ from a structural chemical perspective, but their use and purpose are the same.

Their main purpose is to act as a delivery agent for the active ingredients in the product - think of them as the FedEx of skincare. They have a silky smooth, non-greasy texture which helps the product glide across our skin and can improve the appearance of our skin’s texture.

Let’s take a moment to address the silicone debate. Silicones sometimes get a bad rep which we (and many scientists, dermatologists, and leading beauty journalists) don’t think is deserved. So, here’s some silicone facts and we’ll let you make up your mind.

What’s it made from?

Silicones are made from the naturally occurring mineral, silicon (note no “e”), and oxygen. Silicon (otherwise known as quartz) is one of the most commonly occurring minerals on earth - sand is even made from the stuff. There are lots of changes to silicon to turn it into the silicone we can use in skincare and this is why it’s considered a synthetic ingredient.

Why use it in skincare?

Silicones have a lattice-like molecular structure, with large spaces sitting between the ingredient’s molecules. It’s kind of like the Burberry check, with the dark colours representing the silicone molecules and the light colours as the little spaces between them. When you use a product containing silicone, you get a fine film-like layer sitting on your skin which is punctured by millions and millions of these little holes. This structure is important because the little spaces let your skin breathe while the film-like layer both keeps moisture in the skin (most silicones don’t let water pass through) and acts as a carrier for active ingredients (so aiding the product’s performance). Once on your skin, the film enhances our skin’s texture, blurring any imperfections to improve your complexion.

Will they cause me to breakout?

No - don’t worry, they won’t.

Quite simply, silicones do not clog pores and do not lead to breakouts. There are a couple of reasons we know this. First, as we’ve just talked about, the structure of silicones means that there are these giant spaces between each molecule and this lets the skin breathe (even when we are wearing our skincare products). Secondly, the size of silicone molecules are too big to penetrate into the skin. This means that they can’t get into the pore to block it in the first place!  

Are they ok for people with sensitive skin?

Yes. Silicones are great for people with sensitive skin as they are extremely unlikely to cause any irritation or allergic reactions. Silicones have been around for a long time - around 70 years in consumer products - and so there has been a lot of time to test their safety. Note that hospitals use silicone-based dressings to take care of wounds due to their biocompatibility with most people (very few individuals have allergic reactions or sensitivity to silicone).

What about other health risks?

As silicone molecules are too big to penetrate our skin, it means they can’t enter our bloodstream or bioaccumulate. In other words, they can’t build up inside us to cause harm.

It’s worth mentioning here that there are two key types of silicones that are used in skincare - cyclic silicones (which we don’t use in Bolt Beauty products) and linear silicones (which we do use). There have been some studies that link cyclic silicones (cyclotetrasiloxane and cylcopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and cyclomethicone) to potential health issues (reproductive, developmental toxicity and/or endocrine disruption concerns); however, the latest studies are calling these earlier concerns into question. Let’s assume the jury is still out on these cyclic silicones. But what about their linear cousins - like dimethicone and its derivatives? We are not aware of any studies linking these types of silicones to similar health concerns (and we’ve really looked!). Instead, as we’ve previously described, there are good reasons to use these linear silicones in cosmetics products without any risk to your health.

Do they harm the environment?

There is lots of information out there claiming that silicones will harm the environment. Similar to when we looked at the health implications of silicones, it’s important to remember that there are different types of silicones that have different chemical structures and therefore different potential impacts on the planet. Cyclic silicones have been identified by the EU, Canada and Australia as having potentially harmful impacts on the planet due to they way they can bioaccumulate (build up) in water. However, even these studies go on to recognise that consumer use is unlikely to cause bioaccumulation. Again, let’s assume there isn’t a definitive answer on cyclic silicones yet. We are not aware of any scientific evidence that linear silicones (like dimethicone) are causing harm to the environment. Certain governments have designated cyclic silicones as an environmental problem, but none has done the same for linear silicones. In addition, other studies indicate that dimethicone is “degraded to inorganic constituents, carbon dioxide, silicic acid and water” and “no adverse effects have been detected in experimental organisms representative of the environmental compartments in which dimethicone… may be found”.  

So, why do silicones have a bad rep?

It’s a good question and we’re not really sure of the answer. We can speculate that some of the potential issues related to cyclic silicones have tarnished the reputation of non-harmful, friendly, linear silicones. The fundamental chemical differences between the ingredients can get lost when they all share the generic “silicone” surname. Ever get in trouble at school even though you didn’t do anything but you were hanging around with the kid with the bad rep? It’s just like that.

We’ve also noticed that it’s pretty trendy these days to have a “formulated without” list. We have “suspicious sixes”, “naughty nines” and who knows what will be next. These can be super helpful to identify ingredients that are known to be problematic. But, they can also be confusing, meaningless, and a great marketing tactic. Silicones have started making their way on to these which perpetuates the confusion over whether or not they are problematic ingredients. Let’s start talking about what we formulate with instead :)

Conclusion

Well done for making it through all that detail. As you’ll now be aware, there is a lot of information about silicones and some of it is more accurate than others. We hope a key takeaway for you is that there are different types of silicones and not all silicones are created equal - especially when it comes to the impact on human health or our planet. We are committed to creating safe, effective products and have no reason to consider dimethicone or its derivatives to be potentially hazardous. We’ll continue to monitor the latest scientific studies and will update this when new information on the silicones debate is published.

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

Made from coconut oil and glycerol (a colourless, odourless, plant-derived ingredient), it’s an awesome emollient* which helps to keep our skin glowing and hydrated. Studies show that Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride is safe to use and is compatible with most skin types (meaning it is a great ingredient to look for if you have sensitive skin).

Silica | Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Silica is a naturally occurring mineral and can also be produced synthetically; silica dimethyl silylate is a derivative of silica. They have lots of roles in cosmetics, including as an absorbant and thickening agent. They are also an extremely gently exfoliating ingredient, helping to remove dead skin cells, excess oil, makeup and other pollution or impurities that build up over the day.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

A mixture of a fatty alcohol (well, technically, an ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol) and palmitic acid. It can have different functions in cosmetics products, including as a solvent, emollient, and fragrance carrier (although we don’t actually use it as a fragrance carrier in Mad About Moisture as it’s unfragranced!). As a solvent, its role is to make sure the ingredients in the cosmetics product mix together well and helping the active ingredients (like hyaluronic acid) absorb better into our skin. We also use it because it’s a great emollient*, helping to keep your skin hydrated and soft.

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (Tea Seed Oil or Dongbaek Oil)

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (or more commonly referred to as tea seed oil) is an amazing ingredient which is derived from the beautiful tea seed plant (google image search “camellia plant” and you’ll probably want one for your garden).  

It’s been used in Eastern skincare for centuries, with Geisha girls using it to nourish their skin and even remove their makeup. Modern science now backs traditional claims. Studies show that Camellia Japonica Seed Oil both stimulates collagen production by triggering the responsible gene, COL1A2, and helps stop collagen deterioration by inhibiting the enzymes responsible for breaking it down. It’s comprised mainly of natural lipids (a lipid is something like oil or fat which can’t be dissolved in water) - the main one being oleic acid (otherwise known as the fatty acid omega 9) - and so works as an emollient*, enhancing the skin’s natural barrier and locking in moisture. Finally, Tea Seed Oil is extremely high in antioxidants*, helping to prevent damage to the skin caused by daily life.  

With all these benefits, no wonder the Geisha girls look so great. We’ll have some of those benefits too, please.

Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E)

Tocopheryl acetate is a form of Vitamin E. It’s a synthetic form of tocopherol, which is the natural version of Vitamin E (if you want to get super sciencey-specific, tocopheryl acetate is actually an ester of tocopherol). Tocopheryl acetate is more stable than tocopherol (it doesn’t oxidize) which is why it’s used in cosmetic products, but when we put it on our skin it converts into tocopherol.

Vitamin E is an amazing antioxidant* that protects our skin from damage caused by daily life, like UV rays (sun damage) or air pollution. When our skin encounters these harmful things, it is at risk of damage by unstable molecules called “free radicals”. Free radicals harm our skin in a process called “oxidative stress”. This causes dullness, pigmentation, skin sagging, and fine lines - not what we want for our skin. Antioxidants help to prevent this damage by neutralising the “free radicals”. This helps us to maintain firm and non-pigmented skin, which looks healthy and bright.

If you want to learn more, you can read more about “free radicals” and antioxidants in our description of “antioxidants”.

There have been some suggestions on the internet that tocopherol in skincare is not safe. We are completely committed to providing you with safe and effective skincare and so we take any claim about ingredient safety very seriously. It turns out that these claims are based on studies where mice were injected multiple-times with tocopherol and then developed tumours. These studies do not deal with topical application of tocopherol in low doses. There are no scientific studies which show that tocopherol in skincare causes cancer (or other harm). In fact, there are actually studies which show that application of tocopherol can help to reduce skin cancers in humans.  We hope this helps reassure you on where the rumours come from and why tocopherol is safe to use in your skincare routine.

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (Castor Seed Oil)

Castor seed oil is derived from the Ricinus Communis plant. It’s made by cold pressing the seeds to get the oil, which is then heated for purification. Caster seed oil is formed mainly of Ricinoleic Acid (an omega 9 fatty acid) and so functions as an emollient*, helping our skin stay soft and hydrated.

Sodium Hyaluronate | Hydrolized Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid has become a bit of a buzz word among skincare fans and is a “must have” for plump, hydrated skin.  

This is because hyaluronic acid is a humectant. In other words, it’s something that retains water - it’s so good at this, it can actually hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. This is why it is incredibly effective in skincare, pulling in the moisture to make sure your skin stays hydrated and plump.

We know what you’re thinking… what’s hyaluronic acid got to do with sodium hyaluronate or hydrolized sodium hyaluronate? They are actually part of the same family. The differences lie in the chemical composition of each ingredient.

Let’s start with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide (in (semi-)normal words, a chain of carbohydrate molecules). It already exists in our skin as a molecule making up the extracellular matrix (i.e. the stuff between the skin cells). However, the amount of naturally occurring hyaluronic acid decreases as we get older; first from the epidermis (the outermost layer of our skin) and then from the dermis. Less hyaluronic acid means the skin has a harder time locking in moisture and staying plump and hydrated - queue fine lines, wrinkles, and dry, dull skin.  

Sodium hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid. We then break down sodium hyaluronate even further via a chemical reaction with water to give us hydrolized sodium hyaluronate. There is good reason to create these ingredients from hyaluronic acid: hyaluronic acid molecules are really big (well, relatively) which means they cannot easily penetrate the skin to get to the deeper layers. Sodium hyaluronate and hydrolized sodium hyaluronate have a much lower molecular weight than hyaluronic acid meaning they can reach the lower levels of the skin to work their magic. By combining both hydrolized sodium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate (i.e. small molecules and even smaller molecules) in Mad About Moisture, we get to effectively target different parts of the skin with water-attracting ingredients.

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

An antioxidant* which works to preserve the active ingredients in the cosmetics product. Just as free radicals can damage our skin by stealing electrons from the healthy cells (you can read more about this in our description of “antioxidants”), they also impact cosmetics products in exactly the same way. By using an antioxidant in the formulation, we help to reduce the negative impact of these free radicals and maintain the quality and efficacy of the product.

Bisabolol (Chamomile Extract)

Bisabolol is an extract derived from the lovely chamomile plant, which has been shown to be particularly effective in skincare.

Studies show that it reduces sensitivity and inflammation which helps to minimise irritation and contributes to the skin’s healing process. It does this by stopping the release of things called cytokines, specifically, TNF-α and IL-6 (these are little signalling systems which tell our body to react to harm or not). By inhibiting the release of these cytokines, bisabolol is soothing on the skin, helping to reduce skin inflammation, redness or sensitivity.

Bisabolol also has other properties which keep our skin healthy and glowing. It has strong antioxidant* properties so helps to fight any damage caused to our skin through oxidative stress (you can read more about what this means in our explanation of “antioxidant”). It is also anti-microbial (has properties that kill really small bad stuff like fungi or bacteria) and so can help fight skin infections. For a pretty little flower, it definitely packs some punch.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydrogenated castor seed oil is made from caster seed oil (we also use caster seed oil in Mad About Moisture and you can read about this ingredient separately). It’s made by heating caster oil under pressure in the presence of the metal, nickel. This process causes hydrogen to be added to its chemical composition and turns caster oil into hydrogenated caster oil. The effect of this change is a more stable ingredient, with a higher melting point (meaning it is actually a solid not a liquid at room temperature). Hydrogenated caster oil functions as an occlusive (something that traps in moisture through a super fine layer on our skin) and so helps keep our skin hydrated and healthy.

Pentylene Glycol

A synthetic humectant (something which attracts and holds on to water), which helps keep skin hydrated. We use it to bolster the effects of our hyaluronic acid based ingredients (also humectants) and help our skin stay extra soft and plump. Pentylene glycol is also known to have antimicrobial properties. This means it also helps to preserve the skincare product so it continues to be safe and effective to use.

As a side note, you might see “glycol” as part of the name for quite a few ingredients (in cosmetics and other industries). “Glycol” refers to a group of compounds which belongs to the alcohol family. There any many different forms that are used for a diverse range of things; they might share a surname, but they are definitely standalone characters.

Butylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for lots of reasons: it’s a humectant (it attracts and holds on to water); it helps to deliver other active ingredients in the formulation due to its low molecular size; and it helps to keep the consistency of the product smooth and light.

a side note, you might see “glycol” as part of the name for quite a few ingredients (in cosmetics and other industries). “Glycol” refers to a group of compounds which belongs to the alcohol family. There any many different forms that are used for a diverse range of things; they might share a surname, but they are definitely standalone characters.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract (Ginger Root Extract)

Zingiber officinale root extract (or more commonly called ginger root), is made from the ginger plant. It’s been used in herbal and Ayurvedic remedies for hundreds of years (if not longer) to treat different diseases and skin conditions. Modern scientific studies support the efficacy of ginger root extract - it is rich in antioxidant* and anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective at repairing and calming our skin.

Lactic Acid / Glycolic Acid Copolymer | Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50 | Polyvinyl Alcohol | Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

These ingredients form the basis of the clever DroneTM Technology used in Mad About Moisture to make sure the active ingredients (sodium hyaluronate and hydrolized sodium hyaluronate) reach the parts of the skin that need it most.  

Think of DroneTM Technology in skincare as Google maps for the active ingredients; it makes sure they get to the parts of the skin they need to reach. The DoneTMtechnology works by encapsulating the active ingredients in a “peptide ligand” - a chain of amino acids which are designed to bind to specific cells in the skin. When they reach the right cells, they “bind on”, triggering the release of the active ingredient. We release them to the fibroblasts (the cells that are responsible for making up the extracellular matrix or structure of our skin), to help maintain the levels of hyaluronic acid in the middle layer (dermis) of our skin. This helps keep our skin healthy, plump and hydrated, and reduces the appearance of any fine lines of wrinkles.



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